By Kelly Roache
This past Sunday, I arrived in South India – Hyderabad, specifically – where I’ll be living for the next 10 weeks, taking a course in Persian language. Although I have only been here a few days, some of the observations that have struck me the most are those about the different types of women (and girls) here. I wish to make it clear that I do not think these women can or should be “categorized,” as every individual distinctly embodies some combination of archetypes described below. However, I do think that there is value in studying the differences amongst them.
Hyderabad is known as one of the more Islamic areas of the country, and this is indeed visible. Despite my awareness of this demographic, I was still surprised to see so many women wearing full burqas, walking alongside the street. It is also worth noting that the temperature here can get up to about 110F this time of year. Still more surprising than the quantity of these women, though, is the stark contrast between their attire and behavior. While adhering to strict standards for dress, they can still be seen driving alone (which, in the no-rules land of Indian traffic, is a harrying experience), riding sidesaddle on the back of motorcycles, or walking the streets late at night unaccompanied. This seems like an odd juxtaposition, that someone so conservative in one sense could be so modern in another. Perhaps it is some indication that laws in Islamic countries preventing women from driving or going out alone are oppressive corruptions of their religion, while here a burqa is an unmandated choice and a true show of piety. I haven’t been here long enough to decide, nor am I bold enough to say for sure not being of the faith myself. I think it is something that will continue to interest me, however, throughout my stay.
Since I have arrived, I have taken to wearing traditional Indian clothing. Not only is it fun and a “when in Rome” consideration, but the light cotton is much better suited to the hot and rainy climate. However, many of the 20- and 30-something women on staff here are in Western attire, with some Eastern influences. They are an intriguing balance of values, taking Western classical dance and rejecting traditional Indian food, but practicing yoga every day and proudly partaking in national holidays. I assume that, as with anywhere, each successive generation becomes more globalized, and that’s what I’ve been seeing here. Of particular testament to this are the little girls whom I’ve met, the nine-year old daughters of two employees who live on site. They wear jeans and t-shirts, have a fascination with my skin tone, and love Barbie and Hannah Montana. I’m not sure what it means for the country at large, if anything at all, but the generation gap is clear.
The contrast is particularly notable between these young women and the older – and more often than not, less educated – support staff, who clean the hostel and prepare the meals. They often do not speak English and are always dressed in delicate saris, despite the physical nature of their work. These women are especially, and charmingly, strong-willed and assertive – certainly more so than their younger counterparts. You wish they all could be your grandmother.
All of these things are just observations of what I’ve seen so far – that is, in three days. I don’t intend to rush to conclusions, but the women of this city have captured my attention to a degree beyond my expectations. It’s something I intend to keep an eye on over the next two and a half months.
Image from Trey Ratcliff / CC BY-NC 3.0
